Discussion of replacing propeller shaft bearing

Help please! Has anyone renewed/replaced the curless bearing and inner stern gland on a 32 (I think it will be the same on the 40 and 45. I have a lot of wear in the bearing and the prop shaft moves about making noise! Can you tell me the procedure? Are there any drawings? I cannot make out the structure of the stern tube and access to the cetless bearing since it all appears to be glassed in.
Robert Lambert Irish Mist V32 412.

Robert
It's all glassed in. Isabella had the original shaft bearing and stern gland replaced before I bought her. I can clearly see that there has been a major GRP job around the new gear. If you are not familiar with GRP work, it's an workshop job. You actually has to grind away old GRP to get access to the old bearings, and then after replacing and aligning the new bearing and gland, rebuild the damaged GRP. Best of luck with the progress.
Sigbjørn

Hello Per-Inge
We now have the same problem from the stern bearing with our 32! Did you get some pictures from Per Dagbog? Is it possible to send me some of the stern bearing assembly - perhaps with some news of your own experience? I do not seem to be able to find the original vindo.dk link - certainly not with any reference to Dagbog. Your help will be very much appreciated.
Robert Lambert. Irish Mist V32 No 412 1981

Hi Robert,
I send you a picture of the stern tube, so you can see where the grub screws are located. You have to cut away the fiber glass to get down to the two grub screws. Remove them, now you should be able to with draw your bearing out of the stern tube with a puller. Good luck
Stephan

 

 

 

Letter:

I had to replace mine on the V32 18 months ago and had a lot of trouble! I
will send you some useful info! I received from a V40 owner before I set to
work, although I found my installation was not the same. In the hope that
my experience may help you, the sequence went like this:

1. Remove the propeller using a three leg puller and a large hammer. On the
V32 there is just enough room to waggle the prop out without removing the
rudder - but it is a bit like a Christmas puzzle....

2. Disconnect the propeller shaft at it`s connection with the flange on the
gearbox. In my case the engine and gearbox is an old Volvo 7A, with a
flanged split collar holding the inboard end of the propshaft. I had to use
an angle grinder to cut through the 6 allen bolts retaining the split
collar, and spread the slit with a cold chisel because the whole lot was
rusted on!!! You may need to put the propeller back on loosely and use it
as a slide hammer to persuade the shaft out of the collar.

3. Remove the prop shaft. I also removed the entire sterngland, but it
depends what type you have. Take the opportunity to check both for wear or
wasting due to sterngland abrasion etc., polish out any roughness on the
shaft, and put aside the sterngland for repacking before reassembly.

4. Now the tricky bit. You need to find out if you have a metal or a
fibleglass sterntube. If it is metal then you probably just have to expose
a pair of grubscrews - probably covered over by a resin mix (gloop),
moulding the tube into the shape of the hull externally. When exposed, you
can release these grubscrews and, using a carefully sized bar or tube, knock
out the bearing from the inside. In my case I knocked off the resin fill
around where the tube comes out of the hull, (using a chisel) and found that
there were no grub screws, and that the sterntube was some sort of
fibreglass or hard plastic. Now - if you are lucky - you will just knock
the bearing out from the inside without any cutting or hassle However, in
my case - for a long time I could not move the cutlass bearing at all - it
had been put in with the help of some sort of adhesive, or possibly lightly
glassed in!!!! I was forced to use a hacksaw to saw longitudinally through
first through the rubber and then the brass of the bearing - being very
careful not to cut into the stern tube in the process! Eventually, by
creating a slit, I was able to deform and disturb the bearing a little, and
again using a large hammer on a tube sized to just less than the internal
diameter of the sterntube, "persuaded" the bearing out from the inside.
There is not much room to wield a hammer to drive from the inside, so you
need a big one.

5. Cutlass bearings are available in a wide range of standard sizes. You
will just have to measure you shaft and ID of sterntube. My new one is a
fairly tight fit in the sterntube, but I wanted to revert to the old
fashioned method of using grubscrews to secure and locate the bearing - in
case I ever had to take it out and replace it again! I did this by building
up the wall thickness of that part of the sterntube which protrudes out of
the hull, using fiberglass tape soaked in isophaltic resin, so that I could
drill two pilot holes through which to make small location pits in the
bearing. I them opened out these drillholes just enough to be able to screw
in two brass grubscrews, locating into the little locating pits.

6. Tidy everything up with resin gloop to fair the whole area in with the
hull as before and re-assemble collar, prop shaft and propeller.

Easy - took me three week-ends and two holiday days in a wet, cold open
yard!!! I really DO NOT want to do it again.
I can`t guarantee that your sterngland and bearing arrangement fits this
pattern, - the pictures of a V40 which I will send later may be better. -
but hope that my experience at least helps you to make a plan.

Good luck.
Robert A Lambert
removeral@boltblue.com
 

 

 

 

Updated 03 november 2006